Archive for the ‘Portfolio’ Category

GERRIT RIETVELD class of 2017

Tuesday, November 7th, 2017

I could not be prouder of our graduates, and this year’s show was something special as we took it to the streets, under the ring road overpass in Amsterdam West, just across the street from WOW. The livestream of The Fashion Show 2017 should be still available HERE. The amazing artwork and communication for our graduation show was done by Rietveld graduates from the graphic design department, namely: Eduardo Leon, Nina Schouten, Steinarr Ingolfsson and Christophe Synak.

And here are some jaw dropping looks by our graduates, all photography by TEAM PETER STIGTER:

Miro Hämäläinen

Ninamounah Langestraat

Ninamounah Langestraat

Nathalie Vlaun

Nathalie Vlaun

Boris Kollar

Boris Kollar

Yujin Jung

Yujin Jung

Karen Huang

Karen Huang

Line Langkjer

Line Langkjer

Chelsea Peterson

Chelsea Peterson

WHOLE: 25 years of Freudenthal/Verhagen

Friday, September 23rd, 2016

My fabulous friends, art director Karen Heuter and photographers Carmen Freudenthal & Elle Verhagen just released this awesome ride of a book, covering 25 years worth of memorable work by Freudenthal/Verhagen. I’ve had the honor to work with Carmen and Elle on several occasions. That’s how we became friends. That’s how I ended up making a Hitchcock style cameo appearance as a Viktor & Rolf model on the opening spread in this anniversary book. And that’s how I got to do quite some writing in and around this special publication. Read my personal introduction below, followed by my interview with their long time collaborator Bernhard Willhelm after the break.

Images courtesy of Karen Heuter and Freudenthal/Verhagen

whole-book-real

 

It was during the spring of ‘98 when I first had the pleasure of working with Carmen Freudenthal and Elle Verhagen, and it was due time too. BLVD Magazine, where I was a senior editor with ‘fashion’ as one of my main responsibilities, was preparing for its 5th anniversary issue, and Carmen and Elle just happened to have a proposal that fit the bill: we would celebrate the wave of Dutch conceptual fashion talent of that moment with an extra large fashion shoot using contemporary dancers and performers for models and national park De Hoge Veluwe as the décor. It was a celebration of the creative freedom that marked the decade, and that was so manifest in BLVD., which was all about thrusting ourselves into the future where the digital revolution was lurking and the new humanity makeable. The models-who-weren’t-fashion-models were not modeling the usual high profile clothes that were going to be for sale that summer but instead they were dancing like cavemen around their bonfires, caught up in some kind of ritualistic performance with the highly experimental young designer pieces – some of which were designed especially for the occasion – adorning their powerful naked bodies, revealing ‘private parts’ and all. It was in fact a photographic performance, minutely choreographed by Freudenthal/Verhagen, their camera and their computer. The ‘naked in heathland series’ as we called it, gained extra momentum for Carmen and Elle when, after it had made its impact in BLVD’s festive issue, it featured in i-D magazine as well. Somehow, suddenly, these two originals, who had already spent a decade putting out their highly autonomous ‘staged photography’, experimenting with room filling installations, on set trompe l’oeuil effects like projections as well as pre-Photoshop dark room montage techniques, they had become an establishment of sorts. Their signature was out.

book-presentation-5

 

For Freudenthal/Verhagen it must have meant that their seemingly conflicting proposition, using art photography to take a critical stance towards the established fashion imagery, had finally entered this international dialogue, this visual language that is such a big part of the fashion discipline. And fashion design, in its creative core, is something they love. The ‘naked in heathland series’ had caught Bernhard Wilhelm’s eye and together they embarked on a perennial collaboration that would deeply engrave their wildly imaginative collage style in the international fashion world’s collective memory. Their lookbooks for Bernhard Wilhelm became collectibles, and then they made a book out of it. That same year I joined them in Rome for ‘Dutch Touch’ with the Dutch Fashion Foundation for which occasion they’d made another book called Wonder Holland.

However in demand, instead of seizing their moment as established high profile fashion photographers, knowing all to well the sacrifices they’d be forced to make, Freudenthal/Verhagen saw an opportunity to return to their earlier 3D installation work when Arnhem Mode Biennale offered them a main stage in Museum voor Moderne Kunsten Arnhem. Their photo’s seemed to come to live, leaving the frame as the silk they were printed on draped off the walls and onto the floor. As if having found the secret code to the magic mirror, Carmen and Elle have been comfortable crossing over between their chosen disciplines ever since, be it fashion imagery, photographic installations or anywhere the two can meet, like in advertising, and all the while they keep experimenting with their toolbox. From the very first moment I had the pleasure to sit with them and discuss their editorial ideas it has been clear to me that Carmen Freudenthal and Elle Verhagen are true artists. Their painstaking and time consuming work processes, the ever so earnest dedication to their artistic vision – which, being strangely entangled with a marvelous sense of humor, is simply inimitable -, their continuous drive to create against the grain, all this now accumulates as a Whole. A seriously hard earned delight.

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Collectie Arnhem 2015 + 2016

Friday, September 16th, 2016

A recurring privilege is to do the communications workshop for Collectie Arnhem, the project for 3rd year fashion students at ArtEZ, where they work collectively, as if they were a true fashion brand. Putting the right words to their creative concepts is always an interesting proces, making all the decision making yet to be done so much more focussed and on the edge. These are the 2015 and 2016 editions of Collectie Arnhem, shown traditionally in the wake of Amsterdam Fashion Week in January.

Collectie Arnhem 2015

Collectie Arnhem 2015

Collectie Arnhem 2015

Collectie Arnhem 2015

Collectie Arnhem 2015

Collectie Arnhem 2015

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Collectie Arnhem 2015

Collectie Arnhem 2015

Collectie Arnhem 2015

Collectie Arnhem 2015

 

image001

campaign image Collectie Arnhem 2016

 

© PHOTO PETER STIGTER       COLLECTIE ARNHEM 2016

© PHOTO PETER STIGTER – COLLECTIE ARNHEM 2016

ANNE DE GRIJFF

Friday, September 16th, 2016

A former colleague in the fashion department of the Gerrit Rietveld Academie in Amsterdam, Anne de Grijff is a fashion designer after my heart; pioneering in ‘demi-couture’ and ‘slow fashion’. It was therefor an honor to deliver all the necessary copy for her communication and website AND to be photographed by none other than Koos Breukel – however unforgiving his portraits are, but that was exactly the point of having real women as role models (Characters) for the brand.

Koos Breukel for Anne de Grijff

Koos Breukel for Anne de Grijff

‘Casa’ Viktor & Rolf for Vogue Living Australia

Friday, September 16th, 2016

It’s always a pleasure to work with interior photographer Kasia Gatkowska. For Vogue Living Australia we did a production on Viktor & Rolf’s amazing offices in Amsterdam, which was later re-placed in the Portuguese edition of Vogue.

schermafbeelding-2016-09-16-om-14-08-51schermafbeelding-2016-09-16-om-14-09-07

schermafbeelding-2016-09-16-om-14-09-22

 

 

schermafbeelding-2016-09-16-om-14-09-40

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The editor at Vogue Living Australia severely simplified my article, hence I insist on publishing the original version right here >>

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Modebelofte 2015 ‘Performing Advancers’

Friday, September 16th, 2016

It is going to be hard to ever outdo the 2015 edition of Modebelofte, held in the Philips Stadion in Eindhoven, with a record number of 42 participating designers from a record number of 15 international MA and BA fashion courses. The ‘Performing Advancers’ exhibition of ‘fiercely innovative fashion talent’ was in fact so spectacularly designed by Niek Pulles a.k.a. Heyniek and Harm Rensink that it won the ‘Best of Dutch Design Week Award’ for its overwhelming generosity, awesome location and reach. What a victory for the fashion discipline in this particular design walhalla context.

artwork by Bastiaan de Nennie

artwork by Bastiaan de Nennie

Owning the stadion, this is how it's done

owning the stadion

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The designers selected for the 2015 edition were: Isabelle Tellié , Tung Trinh and Josephine Goverts from ArtEZ, Arnhem; Fabian Bredt, Bram Vervoort, Olivier Jehee  and Nikki Duijst from Royal Academy of Art (KABK), The Hague; Ting Gong, Chisom Ogundu and Tone Bjerkaas from Gerrit Rietveld Academie, Amsterdam; Fatma Kizil from Willem de Koning Academie, Rotterdam; Anouk van de Sande and Vera de Pont from Design Academy Eindhoven; Jessica Walsh, Alan Oakes and Pauline Choi from Parsons School of Design, New York; Chou Yun Ting from Shih Chien University, Taipei; James Mitchell, Jim(Chen-Hsiang)-Hu, Gabriele Skucas, Milligan Beaumont, Gabriel Castro, Matty Bovan and Beth Postle from Central Saint Martins, London; Charlotte Grace Georgina Harris, Kathryn McGee, Yunseo Choi, Hannah Williams, Matilda Norberg and Nneka Okorie from Royal College of Art, London; Sian Alexandra Hadnum, Dawn Ansuh, Jessica Brown and Hannah Curtis from Middlesex University, London; Robyn Priestley from University of Westminster, London; Odella Yue from Winchester School of Arts, University of Southampton; Hannah Wallace from Manchester School of Art; Calum Whitley from Birmingham City University; Laure-Severac, Edoardo Rossi, Sofie Gaudier and Marie Sophie Beinke from Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp.

Without further ado, see HERE a video impression by Heyniek, and below some images of this unforgettable event.

Jim (Chen-Hsiang) Hu (Taiwan), Central Saint Martins

Jim (Chen-Hsiang) Hu, Central Saint Martins – “The name of XI (系) in Hanese and English are both chosen, in Hanese, many words associate with fabric adopts 系 (pronunciation: xì) as a basic component, semantically it could be understood as fibre, which is the basic component of fashion. In ancient Hanese, it could also be explained as association, connection, attachment, and the situation of one comes after another, as cause and effect.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jessica Brown, Middlesex University

Jessica Brown, Middlesex University – Inspired by the 1982 sci-fi Tron; Jessica Brown’s collection embodies a knitted future rife with crochet, luminescent fabrics and gamer rebels out to make a statement. Knitwear specialist Jessica Brown developed complex 3D knitted structures using natural British wool, colored nylon-stuffed Italian yarn, tubular ‘cyberlox’ crin and glittery lurex combined with synthetic fabrics, foam and silver foil for her warrior like menswear.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hannah Williams, Royal College of Art

Hannah Williams, Royal College of Art – Inspired by the way in which sculptors worked Hannah Williams set out to create garments by sculpting onto the body. In her process driven approach, she captured each sculpting session live and the remains of the unused silicone, plaster and acrylic left on the floor was then created into a dress.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fabian Bredt, Royal Academy of Art (KABK)

Fabian Bredt, Royal Academy of Art (KABK) – Identities have become extremely adaptable, leaving the designer to conclude that he belongs to the most plural youth generation in history. Aiming for a more collective group image rather than creating individual looks he chose to design triptych style, dividing each look over three outfits.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dawn Ansuh, Middlesex University

Dawn Ansuh, Middlesex University – took inspiration from a series of photographs by Pieter Hugo, called ‘The Hyena and other men’, which documents Nigerian street performers who train hyenas and use them to perform tricks. They use whatever objects they can find on the streets.

Hannah Curtis, Middlesex University

Hannah Curtis, Middlesex University – To riot or protest is often deemed as an act of mindless violence or destruction with little consideration for the consequences. But beyond this lies passionate defence of cultural and social identity as well as protection of traditional values.

2014 FASHION SYMPOSIUM – time for reflection

Tuesday, November 18th, 2014

Very proud to have collaborated with the:

which took place on 4 December 2014 at UnderCurrent in Amsterdam Noord, The Netherlands

this was the initial press release, one of the many texts and tasks I had the honor to fulfill for this widely appreciated gathering of caring professionals:

For the first time in The Netherlands, fashion industry parties stand together to take some precious time for reflection. Most notably on the position of Dutch fashion in a shifting international dynamic. With the 2014 FASHION SYMPOSIUM, which takes place on the 4th of December in Amsterdam, the initiating party Dutch Fashion Foundation redirects its focus from the presentation of Dutch fashion to reflection on Dutch fashion in order to inspire its future.

This will be a wake-up call!

In which ways should Dutch fashion adapt itself to remain successful in the future, to avoid getting isolated and to remain interesting as a discipline?

Whilst most other disciplines seem keen to stay ahead of the rapid changes we see in world, the fashion industry struggles with changing consumer behaviors, technological innovations and the growing polarity between fast fashion and slow fashion. It is obvious; the fashion industry is in need of a paradigm shift in order to keep up with a changing society, new needs, and with other sectors.

The symposium will cluster these significant developments and place them in a broad perspective. Instead of merely highlighting current market developments the symposium offers much more profound interpretations placing them in an international as well as a historical context. “This will be a wake-up call!”, proclaimed luxury fashion ‘power broker’ Floriane de Saint Pierre of global consulting firm Floriane de Saint Pierre & Associés and the new online talent platform Eyes on Talents, when she committed to the symposium as one of the first key international speakers. 

What to expect?

The symposium takes place in a unique venue called UnderCurrent, located in city district Amsterdam Noord where it floats in the river IJ offering a spectacular view on the old center of Amsterdam. The full-day program consists off a spoken column by Guus Beumer, director at Het Nieuwe Instituut, followed by keynotes from prominent international speakers such as before mentioned Floriane de Saint Pierre and Claudia Banz, curator at the Museum fur Kunst und Gewerbe in Hamburg, who is currently working on an extensive exhibition about fast fashion. There will be on stage debates with designers from different generations reflecting on the fashion system, a performance by Bas Kosters, and quite some inspiration for the practice, with Bugaboo and designers sharing their experiences with the Dutch Fashion Foundation’s foreign campaign Dutch Touch.

The 5th Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium

The 2014 FASHION SYMPOSIUM is also the perfect platform to celebrate excellence in Dutch fashion with the granting of the 5th Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium. The stipendium, a considerable sum of 50.000 euro in recognition of a Dutch fashion designer of international distinction to continue his or her brand in its chosen direction, is made possible by an anonymous patron and the Prince Bernhard Cultural Fund.

Partners

The organisations standing side by side with Dutch Fashion Foundation to realise the 2014 FASHION SYMPOSIUM are: Het Nieuwe Instituut, FashionWeek Nederland, Fashion Council NL, FashionUnited and World Fashion Centre. The symposium is powered by City of Amsterdam District of Noord, Bugaboo and the Netherlands Enterprise Agency (RVO)

The beautiful artwork and event design was done – at amazing speed I might add – by Rietveld graduates Niklaus Mettler and Severin Bunse (who also ‘did’ the Rietveld Graduation Show in 2014)

10-27

Thursday, March 13th, 2014

Everything has its place in the universe and so does the brand new salon by Taco Stuiver, hair dresser of choice for the fashion incrowd and all the cool cultural mavens passing through Amsterdam. Check out the gorgeous website by 10-27 art director Mrs. Karen Heuter with copy by yours truly (and find all of us in the mugshot gallery ‘opening’). Photography by none other than JW Kaldenbach.

Collectie Arnhem 2014

Thursday, March 13th, 2014

It has been a pleasure as always to work with the 3rd year fashion students at ArtEZ in Arnhem on defining their collective ‘Collectie Arnhem’ for communication purposes. The press release and show invite below are in Dutch, although words like ZEST, FILTER, GRIP and CRINGE pretty much sum up the mood of a collection that was developed with all the senses in mind. The images below speak a more universal language although they of course fail to offer pleasure for your sense of touch.

Collectie Arnhem 2014 was realised by: Arjen Kesteloot, Colet Eshuis, Diek Pothoven, Eline Janssen, Eline Keuchenius, Eva van Beek, Isabelle Olschewski, Joanne Vosloo, Josephine Dulmers, Josephine Goverts, Katharina Dubbick, Kristan Kuijf, Laura Lepre, Lilian Admiraal, Maartje Janse, Madelène van Ulden, Marieke van der Ven, Max Zara Sterck, Tim Becx, Tung Trinh, Vera van Buren and Yvette Peek.

Photography: JW Kaldenbach

 

Collectie Arnhem 2014

Z E S T
filter  prikkel grip  cringe

Ziet, in tijden van visuele overkill, een blinde juist niet méér?
Het uitschakelen van één zintuig versterkt de andere. Deze hypersensitiviteit filtert de essentie uit onze waarneming en prikkelt ons vermogen tot interpretatie.
Het concept voor Collectie Arnhem 2014 werd geboren uit de fascinatie voor een uitspraak van een blind geboren jongen: “it’s beautiful, at least I think so, and I believe what I want to believe.”

In het ontwerpproces zijn puur visuele uitgangspunten – zoals bijvoorbeeld een kleurkaart – uitgeschakeld. In plaats hiervan waren tactiele eigenschappen van materiaal en hun bewerking belangrijk. De persoonlijkheid van de stoffen bepaalt het kleurbeeld.
Door ineenkrimpen ontvouwt een deel van de stof zich in prikkelende volumes die de drang naar aanraken uitlokken. De collectie dwingt de kijker zelf te bepalen wat hij ziet. De structuur van breisels wordt gefrustreerd door puff, volumes worden bedwongen, de kledingstukken verlangen een beleving van drager en toeschouwer.

De collectie heeft lange sluike silhouetten. Volumes worden platgedrukt of komen vanuit het materiaal naar buiten. Contrasten als xxl vs xs, rond vs recht en glans vs mat zijn in de collectie verwerkt. De silhouetten eindigen vaak ter hoogte van de kuit; het lengteverschil in verschillende lagen benadrukt het gelaagde geheel. Door draaiingen en openingen worden de kledingstukken opnieuw gedefinieerd. Scherpe 3D puff, breistructuren en frisse kleuraccenten geven de Zest.

Freudenthal Verhagen X Scholten & Baijings

Saturday, June 15th, 2013

 

Toilet seats. High-end Pressalit toilet seats, illuminated by the celebrated Dutch design duo Scholten & Baijings that is, but Carmen Freudenthal and Elle Verhagen had never before projected their inimitable creative views on such a thing as sanitary ware. The result however, a 2,5 minute stop-motion film and four theme images to campaign the Pressalit by Scholten & Baijings collaboration called ‘Colour Blend’, figures gracefully in their portfolio.

Freudenthal/Verhagen’s unorthodox mixed media approach of creating fashion related imagery has earned them an international reputation among art buyers, curators and editors alike. From the very beginning when they started working together – on fashion productions for new generation titles such as i-D magazine, on lookbooks and catwalk presentations for fashion designer Bernhard Willhelm and on commercial images for Dutch advertising agency Kessels Kramer – the Amsterdam based duo have incorporated different art disciplines into their photography. Collage techniques, theatre settings, performance art, video art or even land art, you will find references to a wide scope of artistic influences next to that of fashion.

The ‘Colour Blend’ video for Pressalit takes you on a journey to the most inner and private spaces in four differently themed homes and lives, to a place where a perfectly matching toilet seat becomes the most natural visual element, and then beyond and on to the next. Like a never-ending peep show box the viewer’s eye is pulled in a straight central focus line and at a controlled constant speed through this magic 3D collage, which integrates Scholten & Baijings’ concept of merging colours using a fine regular dot pattern.

Freudenthal/Verhagen started incorporating video into their vocabulary in 2004 with a film installation called The Plate Spinner for Bernhard Wilhelm. This seven-minute film was part of a show in Stedelijk Museum Bureau Amsterdam.  An installation commissioned by fashion initiative Painted Series for Museum Paviljoens in Almere in 2008 showed the more complex use of film that has become their signature. Their Singing Girls installation (2010), which projects video onto photography, is currently on show at the MOTI in Breda, as part of the Couture Grafique show. Recent fashion and portrait photography productions include assignments by Dutch newspaper glossy NRC Lux, department store Bijenkorf and their specially commissioned contributions to the Blue Jeans exhibition in Centraal Museum Utrecht in the fall of 2012. The latter assignment earned them the ‘public’s favourite’ vote.