Archive for the ‘Portfolio’ Category

La jouissance de soi-même

Friday, December 4th, 2009

Deluxe feelgood interior designer Stef Bakker invited me to add some word magic to new place in town BO CINQ. I haven’t had such fun writing in quite a while. Here’s a preview of the place, courtesy of photographer Mandy Pieper (more ‘text art’ pictures coming up!) The “LA JOUISSANCE DE SOI-MEME” title you’ll find above the brasserie entrance on Lange Leidsedwarsstraat 53-59 deserves a little footnote: it being the title of the very first Libertine manifest dated 1759, written by a Marquis Caraccioli who lived in Paris at the time. His erudite pledge for accepting life’s pleasures free of sin were not quite as much appreciated in his day.

The smoker's lounge offers plenty of space for changing dialoques like this curious snibbit from Waiting for Godot

The smoker's lounge offers plenty of space for changing dialoques like this curious snibbit from Waiting for Godot

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Interview with Scott Sternberg from Band of Outsiders

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

The Band of Outsiders article I wrote for the September issue of Blend magazine was in Dutch, so what I can share with the global attick is the original Q&A we did in early August this year. Enjoy.

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A selection from the accompanying shoot in Blend magazine by Thomas Whiteside

We spoke last year around the same time. You just won the CFDA award and were about to present your new collection. You were planning to expand Boy & men’s accessories. And mentioned some ‘retail projects that won’t seem much like retail’ starting in Tokyo? So how did all that go?

It’s been a pretty great year. Boy. is now produced in Italy with a really fantastic production facility, so most of my time has been spent going back and forth and working with this amazing team, getting to know each other, developing two collections. And the men’s is continuing its story organically, finding great customers along the way. Sadly the retail project in Japan is still stalled. It’s a long story, but I’m trying to take a very old piece of machinery from the U.S. and re-wire and re-work it to do something entirely different, in a different country where the electrical, err, stuff is different.

Your homepage features a series of Polaroids of LA homes. What’s the relation to Band of Outsiders? They look like crime scenes to me. Or at least invoking fantasies about who lives there, how they live and so on.

Ooh, I like the idea of them being crime scenes, although that wasn’t the point.  I decided we needed a home page, and the most logical subject for the Polaroids on a home page seemed to be homes.  There are some pretty great ones around Los Angeles, so that worked out nicely.  Speaking of, I need to get out and shoot some more - freshen things up.  In terms of what it says about the brand, I would throw that back to you.  For me, all of the imagery and ideas we’re putting out under the Band of Outsiders brand don’t necessarily have to be of clothing or directly related to fashion.  It’s all about a feeling, an approach, and a way of looking at things.

What is essentially Band of Outsiders? (you called it ‘fetishized American Sportswear’ on Style.com) Overstating the understatement? If something matters, everything matters?

That’s a big question.  And there’s two directions from which to answer - the clothes, and the brand around them. Let’s stick with the clothes for now.  The men’s clothes are about looking at the classics and making them feel new, fresh, and completely covetable; the women’s are about that too, but a little more conceptual in their approach, with a heavy anchor in menswear.  Boy is also a bit about playing off of trends, re-working them into our language.  Both have a strong focus on tailored clothing and offering something new and fresh in that category.

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Interview with Paul Gorman, writer of The Look, Adventures in Rock and Pop Fashion

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

Here’s the uncut version of my interview with Paul Gorman for the September issue of Code magazine. The best part of my job is getting to talk to the most inspired fashion drivers in the world. The worst part is that there’s never enough text space in magazines.

Cover of The Look, an absolute must-read if you love your favorite rocker's styles and want to know all about it.

Cover of The Look, an absolute must-read if you love your all time favorite rocker's styles and want to know all about it. There was never a more complete account...

British journalist and author Paul Gorman wrote the most exhaustive celebration of rock and pop fashion spanning five monumental post war decades. First published in 2001, followed by an update in 2006 and another one in progress, The Look, Adventures in Rock and Pop Fashion is not just another must read style bible to top your night table stack. With his The Look-blog, a London club night and fashion label The Look Presents, all born in the wake of his applauded book, Paul Gorman is on a mission to safeguard the holy grail of flamboyance. “When great music meets great style, that’s when things really start to pop.”

The Look had been on my professional literature wish list ever since raving reviews of the 2006 re-release started popping up in all my fashion feeds. Code’s gutsy timed Rock Star theme literally made me jump to the occasion of digging into this beefy, juicy and bloody fabulous chunk of fashion history, starting in the spring of 1952 with a seventeen year old Elvis pressing his pretty face against the Lansky Bros menswear store window on 126, Beale Street in Memphis, and closing with Hedi -“I was born with a David Bowie album in my hand”- Slimane’s triumph at Dior Homme, crediting rock and roll buddies ranging from Pete Doherty to Mick Jagger. The Look’s threefold foreword, by Paul Gorman, Paul Smith and Malcolm McLaren, had cast a bit of a blues-y ‘those were the good old days’-shadow ahead, but this is the first thing the rock-and-fashion-jive-talking author wishes to set straight in our interview. “The collective conclusion is that the potency that occurs when fashion and music combust has been all but lost as celebrity culture goes into overdrive and big business dictates like never before in this Starbucked age.” states Gorman’s introduction while Paul Smith concludes his with the observation that today “everything is over-considered”, in contrast to the ‘blank sheet’ his generation started out with after the war. Malcolm Mc Laren, who unchained quite the fashion movement together with Vivienne Westwood at the dawn of the 70’s, is most grim about the loss, noting that fashion no longer drives subcultures but has become an industry merely producing product to supply our global mall-culture.

Paul Gorman: “I think it’s just become very fragmented. It’s still out there, but in different ways, like the rest of culture.” ‘It’ referring to that certain X-rated good stuff that The Look is all about; unpredictable, sexy, dangerous style, fearlessly served up by likewise musical talents and their tailors. “There was always boring and predictable stuff around. You gotta keep your eyes open and I guess that’s what we always did, didn’t we?”

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‘World Without Women’ & ‘Les Plus Beaux’ by Ruud van der Peijl & Silvia B.

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

From September 5 through October 10, 2009, Amsterdam gallery RONMANDOS presents a duo art show on the theme of masculinity, male beauty and self-perception, combining a selection of photographs from the series World Without Women by Ruud van der Peijl with the unsettling doll sculptures ‘Les Plus Beaux’ by artist Silia B.

Read my press release here, and see you there!

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OUT NOW: Arnhem Fashion Biënnale 2009

Monday, May 18th, 2009

For the third time in a row I was proud to collaborate on communication for Arnhem Fashion Biënnale. This time around a beautiful magazine was created around this edition’s theme SHAPE, for which I got to interview Raf Simons for Jil Sander, G+N, Cosmic Wonder Light Source, Klavers van Engelen and Saskia van Drimmelen for Painted Series along with labouring some 30 highly condensed biographies (someone’s got to do it ;-). As a prelude to the Arnhem Fashion Biënnale (June 6 - July 6, 2009) get the magazine for only 5 euros at www.elsevier.nl/AMB

In any case don’t miss the solo exhibition Holy House by Carmen Freudenthal and Elle Verhagen at MMKArnhem (June 6 - August 23, 2009)

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