On the first sunny weekend of 2010 – March 12, 13 & 14 – I was invited to witness Moda Lisboa.
It was a first for me, as for many years I have been hearing lots of positive rumor about this event, so now I am happy to report; it is all true. On the dot organization including 5-star hospitality – we even had an exquisite midnight dinner at the major’s one night – and an impressive national fashion line up. The ‘hardship’ with a local fashion week like Moda Lisboa is that their 4-day show program mixes just about every segment from newly graduated or highly conceptual talents to typical ‘socialite darling’ couturiers, longer running internationally oriented labels and even highly commercial denim brands. New to the Portuguese fashion scene, I decided to simply enjoy the ride while questioning some very nice local colleagues for much needed context. Here’s my pick of labels, presentations and looks, some of which will no doubt be featured in an upcoming issue of Code or Blend magazine:
Katty Xiomara made a fine case of a young-ish designer who, seemingly effortless, blends materials, colors and graphics in a contemporary cocktail of girly silhouettes, but then I was told she has been doing the same thing over and over again, with the same cute cup sleeves and all. In which case ‘effortless’ suddenly becomes a deadly sin. Still…I think she’s got something going there.
The second venue, design museum MUDE, which opened may last year and whose lovely director Bárbara Coutinho I had just interviewed for Code magazine, showed a selection of younger designers under the Lab Fashion flag. MUDE’s vintage design collection and it’s building, an old architectural landmark bank stripped to the naked concrete made for a perfect setting.
So maybe it was the cool MUDE context, but I liked almost all the young guns presented here, like aforestdesign. Especially the two way wearable bags, because as a Dutch-esse I’ve had my fill of all too conceptual clothes for siamese twins, although the gymnast-model-video projected on the 70’s wooden walls worked very well for me.
Lara Torres I suggest you research because her arty but smart approach to fashion results in the most amazing objects and projects. For this presentation she showed a shirt and shirt sleeve in wax narrating of fashion memories.
The White Tent duo Pedro Noronha-Feio and Evgenia Tabakova may well be my favorites, and it turns out they studied at Central Saint Martens. So maybe that explains the more international, somewhat androgynous, indie femininity with the slashed metallic leather theme for totally covetable armor, mixed in with some great parkas and trenchcoats.
Back at the main venue Pedro Pedro showed some pretty agreeable 60’s style minimalism mixing a cosy brown and grey palette of bouclé woolens, fur and ostrich feathers with black trimmed clear plastic for capes, skirts and booties.
My final pick form this year’s calender would be Filipe Faísca who showed a strong collection full of historical Portuguese references. In fact, there was a lot of regimental and sexual nationalism going on in Lisbon but Faísca got the abstraction just right for a more international appreciation if you ask me. Loved the reflector over the shoe leggings with the little Chanel-esque black nose for their show effect, the medieval influences in jewelery and simplistic lammy skins and most of all this amazing look with plissé pants over a fragile tule top.
Every fashion week needs it’s controversies and this one had plenty, like the masqué miss-styling at Nuno Gama or Dino Alves showing his entire women’s collection on men in cliché drag make up, but my favorite was this really very pretty young girl totally Vogue-ing one dramatic outfit after the other from the second or third row, but right opposite from the international press catwalk section. I stepped up to her and her chaperone (make up artist Jorge Serio) and it turned out she, Marianne, was doing a 4 day long performance for a young designer label called Storytailors. I know I want to know more of their story.
Tags: aforestdesign, Lara Torres, Moda Lisboa, MUDE, Storytailors, White Tent