The first time I laid eyes [and hands] on fresh Dutch label C.Cruden was last February, at then newly opened concept store Sketch in The Hague where the owners Robert and Erik van Oosterom gave me a tour of their hand picked ‘contemporary artisan’ designers. Jewelry by Arielle de Pinto, Creative Recreation and Volta shoes, Mismo and Filson bags, Raf Simons, Monique van Heist and C.Cruden – did I know Sammy Cruden? I did not. But I loved her work on the spot. Denim leggings with fashioned feet, very Peter Pan, also available in butter soft black leather. Oversized organic cotton T-shirts with sequin print and totally covetable black leather carry all bags modeled after a supersized toiletry bag. Simple yet highly effective, C.Cruden made me want to throw out my entire wardrobe; this is all I need. I just had to get to know Ms. Cruden first thing.
Thus my newest Skype-friend, Sammy officially goes by her dramatic adoptive name Clothilde Alexandra Cruden [which explains the C.] and she’s been very comfortable ‘off the radar’ working at eco denim start up Kuyichi from 2001, then some Dirk Bikkenbergs and Lidewij Edelkoort, but the Paris fashion set was not for her. After a voluntary fashion recess she chose to go for casual, starting at O’Neil, and with a private ‘pop up’ label on the side. Soon her path crossed that off Wilbert Das at Diesel where Renzo Rosso offered her the amazing opportunity to explore denim with the Diesel Denim Gallery line for women and some Style Lab. After three years in Italy she was lured back to her hometown Rotterdam where she set up her own studio [soon to be studio-cum-store] where she not only develops ‘inspiration pieces’ for Diesel and others, but also her own label C.Cruden. There’s not really ‘a collection’ to be followed by a new collection, C.Cruden is one of those brave labels exploring a new ‘slow fashion’ dynamic with a steadily evolving permanent collection of sublimated ‘pieces’. Her Japan crafted jean is called C01 and marries the ‘Boyfriend fit’ with the ‘nice ass’. The leggings coded C02 are produced closer to home, the leather pieces are made to order by craftsmen, there’s a perfect tubular knit shirt, a simple multifunctional leather lace, an archetype white shirt, over dye-able with the DIY dye kit, and a ‘button ring’ in collaboration with jewelry designer Martine Viergever. The total of all these styles makes for a highly condensed contemporary look, yet highly accessible, for Rotterdam is known for its down to earth attitude. Sustainability is another major motive, no plastics or paper is used, treatments are non toxic and she loves recycling. But the best thing about little treasures like C.Cruden is that they are not too available. Sammy takes her time. Apart from a small however steadily growing number of ‘perfect match’ stores like Sketch and Humanoid she plans to open her studio doors as well as a web shop soon. Alert to Amsterdammmers: during the up coming Amsterdam International Fashion Week C.Cruden will partake in a HTNK meets SPR+ presentation. As much as I am inclined to keep this treasure all to myself, I wish C.Cruden a loyal share of fans.
These are the very first official lookbook images of C.Cruden and some merchandising design by Nicole Martens.
Tags: C.Cruden, Martine Viergever, Nicole Martens, Sammy Cruden, Sketch, slow fashion, Wilbert Das