Following the same minimalist approach of their summer 2011 collection, Niels Klavers and Astrid van Engelen set out to maximize effects for winter. The overall look is that of a beautiful piece of fabric thrown on the body by a gentle breeze. Adding knitwear to the Klavers van Engelen line for the first time, in downy and weightless mohair, as well as a deep dyed curly goat fur, they further explored their signature purist design principles.
Minimal interventions causing maximum effect. Two different rectangular pieces of fabric sandwich the body to make a top or dress, a mohair knit in front and a washed silk for the much shorter back. Complexity and ease merge in dresses and trousers with large integrated square shaped shawls that can be worn loose over the shoulder or tied around the neck creating a sophisticated draped top. Loose shapes such as caftan tops and dresses or a kimono like trenchcoat mirror the great fashion decade of bohemian ease and femininity, yet executed with razor sharp minimalist constructions.
The colour palette for autumn winter 2011-2012 is an intense dark rainbow starting with the Klavers van Engelen signature ‘flame’ orange and ending in a solid silver grey. Inspired by Mark Rothko’s great colorfield paintings juxtaposing precious shades such as daffodil, mustard, cerise, grape, loganberry, bordeaux, bronze, a wonderful deep fawn, chocolate, latte and just a touch of black creates a mesmerizing effect.
Extreme contrasts in fabric combinations such as loosely knit mohair and chiffon or dyed goat fur with washed silk emphasise the suggested simplicity of some pieces. Again a blown up of an abstract photograph digitally transferred to silk is the only print in the collection. Goat suede and supple wool, rich wool and cotton blends with silk or cashmere, a washed silk seersucker, fine polyester or viscose, the materials are balanced and beautiful.
The Klavers van Engelen autumn winter 2011-2012 collection simply oozes confidence and accuracy with contemporary elegance and ease as its basic principle.
photography by Peter Stigter